Emerald Jewellery: A Buyer's Guide
Emerald is the green variety of beryl and May's birthstone. Here's how to choose one and care for it, set in solid gold.
Quick answer
Emerald is a green beryl prized for its rich colour, and is the birthstone for May. It's reasonably hard (7.5-8 on Mohs) but tends to contain natural inclusions, so it needs a little more care than a diamond. We set emeralds in solid 9, 14 or 18ct gold, made to order or bespoke.
Colour is everything
With emerald, colour matters more than anything else. The most desirable stones show a vivid, slightly bluish green with medium-to-deep saturation. Too pale and it reads as ordinary green beryl; too dark and it loses life. Unlike diamonds, emeralds are valued primarily on the beauty of their colour rather than a clarity grade, and we'll help you find a tone that looks vivid in your chosen setting.
Inclusions and treatments
Almost all emeralds contain natural inclusions — often called the jardin (French for garden) — and this is entirely normal and expected. It's also standard industry practice for emeralds to be treated with oils or resins to improve appearance; a reputable stone is sold on that understanding. We're transparent about any treatment so you know exactly what you're buying.
Hardness, care and setting
At 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale emerald is hard, but its inclusions can make it more brittle than a diamond, so it's sensitive to sharp knocks. Clean with a soft cloth and warm soapy water — never an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, which can disturb the oils. A protective setting in solid gold, such as a bezel or well-considered claws, helps guard the stone. Emerald looks classic in yellow gold and crisp in white.
Choosing an emerald piece
Because every piece is made to order in solid gold and set to your size, we can choose a protective setting that suits your emerald and your hand. Message our team on WhatsApp and we'll help you choose.
Frequently asked questions
Are emeralds suitable for everyday rings?
Emerald is hard but more brittle than diamond because of its inclusions, so it suits careful daily wear. A protective setting and avoiding knocks helps it last well in a ring.
Why do emeralds have inclusions?
Natural inclusions, known as the jardin, form as the crystal grows and are expected in emerald. They're part of its character rather than a fault, and rarely affect beauty.
Are emeralds treated?
Most emeralds are treated with oils or resin to improve clarity — this is standard and accepted in the trade. We disclose any treatment so you know what you're buying.
How should I clean an emerald?
Use a soft cloth with warm soapy water only. Avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners and harsh chemicals, which can strip the oils that emeralds are traditionally treated with.